The KLCD team embarked on their project by gathering data on food waste from selected markets across the city. Their initial outreach included contacting creative hubs and cafes for survey contributions; however, with the exception of LOKL Cafe, most expressed interest but were ultimately unable to participate. This led the team to concentrate solely on the primary sources of the food supply chain that sustains the city’s community. Guided by prior experience with natural dye-making, the team aimed to experiment with local resources unique to Kuala Lumpur.
The following list details the types of waste collected:
Orange peels
Passionfruit skins
Mint leaves
Pandan leaves
Banana flowers (Jantung pisang)
Banana stem (Batang pisang)
Avocado skins and seeds
Onion skins
Parsley
Pomegranate skins
Chestnut shell
Corn husks
Heliconia flowers
Chrysanthemum flowers
Rose flowers
Areca nut (Buah pinang)
Once the collection process concluded, the KLCD team began experimenting with these materials to discover the colour potentials they could yield. This was the largest amount of waste the team had worked with, prompting them to enhance their waste management and natural dye storage practices to combat decay.
The team successfully extracted colours from most of the resources but had to refine their selection due to limited quantities for the exhibition and variations in colour vibrancy and longevity. Ultimately, the chosen food waste for the artworks included avocado, parsley, and onion skins, as well as new additions such as mint leaves, areca nuts, pandan leaves, banana heart, and banana stem.
The team was eager to work with other local natural resources like Ulam Raja herbs, rambutan, mangosteen, and betel leaf (daun sirih), but these were either out of season or lacked sufficient waste for collection.
During the food waste collection around Kuala Lumpur, the KLCD team were able to collect the following waste. For every kilogram of waste, the following outputs are produced :
Output : 3 litres of natural dye
Output : 3 litres of natural dye
Output : 3 litres of natural dye
Output : 5 litres of natural dye
Output : 5 litres of natural dye
Output : 5 litres of natural dye
The process of creating natural dyes from organic food waste involves three key phases. Below are the phases involved:
Phase One
Material Preparation
Fabric Preparation
A pre-mordanting technique is used on the fabric to ensure the colours bind effectively to it.
Collection of Food Waste
Gathering suitable organic food waste to create natural dyes. Waste are sorted based on colour and type to ensure the best quality dye.
Phase Two
Colour Preparation
Extraction
Sorted food waste is boiled in water to extract the natural pigments. Stirring occasionally to ensure evenly extraction.
Filtering
Once the desired colour intensity is reached, the dye solution is filtered through a fine sieve to remove the debris. Let dye bath cool down to room temperature.
Phase Three
Dip, Dye & Dry
Dyeing Process
Submerged the pre-mordanted fabric into the cooled dye bath and allow the fabric to absorb the colour evenly.
Drying
Once the fabric has attained is desired colour, remove the fabric and hang it to sun dry. Ensure that the fabric dries thoroughly for the best colour retention.
The Elusive Pandan - A Special Case
In the world of natural dyeing, colours that are derived from food waste and plants materials play a crucial role in pigment extraction. Natural pigments such as anthocyanin, carotenoids, flavonoids, betalain, lutein and chlorophyll contributes to a wide range of colours with varying levels of longevity.
Some food waste pigments tends to fade quickly, hence, an additional step is required to enhance the permanence of the dyes.
Pandan is widely used as a flavouring in most Southeast Asian cuisines due to its natural sweet taste and soft aroma (described as grassy with hints of rose, almond and vanilla, verging on coconut)
Pandan is one of the most challenging sources of pigment due to its fugitive (easily fading) nature. For this project, in order to preserve the vibrancy of the colour, the pandan is blended, strained and heated gently to 30°C instead of the usual boiling. This method mirrors the cooking technique used for the local favourite kuih, 'Kuih Seri Muka', ensuring the dye retains its rich colour.
Pigment to Paste
Due to the tendency of food waste pigments to fade quickly, we've decided to transform the dye into a thicker ink paste by adding starch. This thickened ink allows us to use the silk screen printing technique to further investigate the potential longevity of the colours.
After motifs and patterns are applied to the fabric, the designs are steamed to bind the ink to the fabric fibres, enhancing durability. This innovative method marks the first time such a technique has been showcased in Malaysia.
Process of Patches
Once the KLCD team extracted the colours for natural dye and turned them into ink paste, they began experimenting with silkscreen printing for the exhibition's designs. They initially used ink made from pomegranate skins but found it lacked vibrancy. To achieve the desired contrast between the dyed fabric and printed designs, they added iron salts as a modifier.
Ultimately, the team opted to use mint leaves as the main ink for the eight patch designs on display at Chow Kit.
Visitors can purchase these patches at the Kuala Lumpur Colour District exhibition.